Slovenia had been on our travel wish list for a while. Stories of stunning landscapes, pictures of storybook Lake Bled and a charming capital with a seemingly unpronounceable name were all reasons enough to book air tickets. In the end, however, it was a very good deal on flights that encouraged us to finally pull the trigger and plan our summer Slovenia itinerary.
And I’m so glad that we did.
Despite increasing in popularity, this small Central European country remains – for now – one of Europe’s best-kept secrets and one we quickly fell in love with.
Half the size of Switzerland and smaller than the island of Sicily, Slovenia is home to just 2.1 million people. The country borders Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia and, until 1991, was part of Yugoslavia.
But despite its small size, Slovenia has something for everyone. Much of the country, around 70 percent, are hills and mountains, and over half of the land is covered in trees. But there’s also a coastline, a small sliver of sparkling turquoise waters that measures just 47km.
The capital’s elegant old town is a delight, the Julian Alps are just as stunning as the mountains in neighbouring Italy or Austria and Lake Bled is every bit as pretty in real life as in pictures.
If you are planning a trip to Slovenia then I have put together a 7-day and 10-day Slovenia itinerary based on our trip and what we learned along the way.
One of the great things about Slovenia is that its small size means that you don’t have to worry about travel distances; if you really wanted to, you could be hiking in the mountains in the morning and enjoying a glass of something cool while watching the sun set over the Adriatic Sea by late afternoon.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. I have been or could be if you click on a link in this post compensated via a cash payment, gift or something else of value for writing this post. See our full disclosure policy for more details.
Slovenia Itinerary Summary
Table of Contents
If you only have one week to spend in the Slovenia, I would recommend enjoying Ljubljana, Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj, and the mountains. Depending on when your flights arrive, it’s worth spending at least two nights in Ljubljana. You could then plan your trip as follows:
- Day 1: Fly into Ljubljana
- Day 2: Explore Ljubljana
- Day 3: Day trip to Lake Bled and / or Lake Bohinj. Alternatively, you may choose to stay at the lake (I would recommend finding somewhere to stay near Lake Bohinj as opposed to Lake Bled). You can also visit Vintgar Gorge while here.
- Days 5-7: Drive to the mountains. The Soča Valley is one of the most popular places in Slovenia and heaven for outdoor enthusiasts with hiking, rafting and zippiness all available. An alternative is to visit, as we did, Logar Valley, an incredible glacial valley with some excellent hiking opportunities.
If you can, I would highly recommend that you spend 10 days in Slovenia. This will give you time to enjoy the itinerary above and add on time in Piran, along Slovenia’s sparkling coastline.
- Day 1: Fly into Ljubljana
- Day 2: Explore Ljubljana
- Days 3-5: Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj.
- Days 5-7: The Soča Valley or Logar Valley.
- Days 7-10: Piran on Slovenia’s coast, then return to Ljubljana for your flight home, stopping at Škocjan Caves along the way.
If you have less time then you can still enjoy a 5 day Slovenia road trip itinerary by breaking up your time as follows:
- Day 1: Fly into Ljubljana
- Day 2: Explore Ljubljana
- Day 3-5: Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj, then return to Ljubljana for your flight home.
Getting to Slovenia
Slovenia is home to three international airports: Ljubljana, Maribor, Portorož. We flew direct from London to Ljubljana with British Airways, arriving and departing in the evening.
It’s also possible to combine your time in Slovenia with time in Italy and the airport of Trieste is only 55km from the Slovenian border. Other options include Venice, which is 280km away.
From Graz Airport in southeastern Austria it’s 188km to Ljubljana Airport.
7 Day Slovenia Itinerary
One of the best things about Slovenia is just how easy it is to get around. It is a small country, which means that driving distances are short and you can squeeze a lot into your trip if you want to (alternatively you could enjoy everything at a more relaxed pace!). We chose the latter but still managed to see most of the country’s main highlights.
This itinerary, and the 10 day Slovenia itinerary, all start in Ljubljana and assume that you are flying in and out of the capital.
Day 1: Arrive and travel into Ljubljana
If you are planning on exploring Slovenia beyond the capital then you will need a car. Public transportation within Ljubljana is pretty good but it is not great outside of the city. You may choose to collect a rental car at the airport or, you can do as we did, and hire one later on in your trip in town and then return the car to the airport at the end.
Taxis into Ljubljana from the airport are plentiful and reasonably priced. Alternatively, public bus no. 28 runs regularly between the airport and the city centre in a journey time of around 45 minutes. It costs around 4 euros per person and tickets can be purchased directly from the bus driver. Find more information on the buses here.
We stayed at Hostel Celica, very near to the heart of the old town in the city’s celebrated “alternative cultural centre” Metelkova Mesto. Housed within former military barracks, this colourful neighbourhood is covered in street art and hosts art exhibitions, club nights, concerts, and more.
Hostel Celica is housed within a former military prison where the cell blocks have been artistically transformed into private rooms and no two are the same – it was once named the “hippest hostel in the world” by Lonely Planet.
There are also shared dorms. We loved our stay here; the rooms are comfortable, the shared bathrooms sparkling clean and the staff are really friendly and helpful. However, if hostels are not your thing then Hotel Heritage is a great place to stay.
Day 2: Ljubljana
Morning: Get to know Ljubljana
Breakfast was included in our stay at Hostel Celica and was very good but one morning we opted for breakfast at Ek Bistro instead. Located on the banks of the Ljubljanica river, this cafe and restaurant has a very good breakfast and brunch menu.
The capital is not a big city and you can see most of it Ljubljana in one day.
Unlike some cities there is no one iconic building: no Eiffel Tower as you would find in Paris or Brandenburg Gate as in Berlin. But this, in my opinion, does not detract from the city’s merits. One of the things I love most about Ljubljana is that it’s the perfect city to discover while simply wandering around.
Perched at the top of a green hill in the heart of the city is the Ljubljana Castle. It’s Access is either via steps or the funicular that you can ride both ways. You’ll notice plenty of dragons as you wander around town and, if you knock on the large metal gate near the entrance to the funicular, you just might hear a dragon roar.
The exact reason behind the city’s fire breathing symbol is a little unclear (some say that it has its origins in the legend of Jason and the Argonauts) but a dragon first appeared as a symbol in the city’s crest in the 16th century and has stayed there every since.
Ljubljana Castle was first constructed in the 11th century as a royal residence. It later functioned as a military hospital, prison, quarantine station for prisoners of war in the First World War and later, during the Second World War, it was occupied by the Nazis. Today it’s home to a museum and is a popular wedding venue. We decided not to visit the museum but enjoy the views over the city instead.
Once you descend from the castle, stop by Klobasrna for Slovenian Cheese Dumplings or Struklji. These rolled dumplings come with a variety of fillings and are typically steamed (the walnut flavour was our personal favourite!). This is a good option for a quick lunch.
Afternoon
Ljubljana was largely designed by the artist and architect Jože Plečnik and his influence on the cityscape has been compared to Antoni Gaudí and his relationship with Barcelona. Many of the buildings that you see today, as well as the famous Triple Bridge and even the Ljubljana River, are thanks to him.
The book Slovenology: Living and Traveling in the World’s Best Country, written by American author and art historian Noah Charney who lives in Slovenia, is an excellent introduction to the country and includes a detailed Plečnik guided walking tour through the city.
Highlights include Plečnik’s House, NUK (National and University Library), Cobbler’s Bridge, the Triple Bridge, and the Covered Market.
Today the Covered Market houses a series of small food shops all located within a colonnade designed by Plečnik. Market stalls sit on the floor below and a farmer’s market takes place in the square opposite every day apart from Sunday.
If you visit during the summer months, then you might be able to enjoy Open Kitchen, which takes place on Fridays between March and October. The weekly event sees more than a dozen local restaurants set up food stalls opposite the central market; it’s the perfect place to try lots of different dishes.
One of the things that we enjoyed most in Ljublijana was taking a boat ride along the river. There are various boat operators to choose from (they all charge the same price) and you can find at least one standing on one of the many bridges that cross the river. Try the Butchers Bridge (covered in padlocks) if you are unsure.
The hour-long boat journeys cruise up and down the river and it’s a really enjoyable way to see the city.
Other highlights you should include in your first day is the Prešernov trg square (Preseren Square), where the large pink Church of the Annunciation stands.
Standing almost alongside is a statue of the great Slovenian classical poet, France Prešeren. Follow his gaze and you will see a small bust of Julija Primic in a wall. The daughter of a wealthy merchant, she was his unrequited love and the inspiration for many of his poems.
Another reason to visit Preseren Square is to cool down. If, like us, your Slovenia trip takes place in the summer you may experience high temperatures. Given that Slovenia typically experiences 300 days of rain a year, the city has installed a cooling sprinkler system in the middle of the square where you can, as the sign says, experience “The area with Ljubljana’s own weather”.
It’s also worth mentioning that I found the best coffee (and iced coffee) in town here at Stow 2 Go.
We also really enjoyed strolling along the pedestrianised Stari Trg (Stari Street) lined with 19th-century wooden shopfronts that now house restaurants, cafes and small locally-owned shops.
Evening
We ate at a couple of very good restaurants during our time in Ljublijana.
The first, TaBar, sits along the river in the former bicycle factory that produced the popular Yugoslavia-era Rog bicycles. This wine bar serves a wide selection of Slovenian wines (no, I had no idea that Slovenia produced wines before we visited either!) alongside a selection of tapas-type dishes. The food was very tasty and the wine was very good!
Our favourite restaurant, however, was Baščaršija that serves traditional Balkan cuisine. Not having a clue what any of the items on the menu were, we simply let our waiter order for us and enjoyed a fantastic meal. The highlight was the Ćevapčići, a type of grilled meat typically served with flatbreads, raw sliced onions and kajmak, a butter-cream cheese hybrid.
It’s worth pointing out that meat is a staple on almost all menus and vegetarian options are slim. As for vegans, in our experience, the salads come laden with cheese! That said, I have been recommended a good vegan restaurant, Güjžina, by a friend and Slovenia expert who also recommended Most and AFTR.
Wherever you choose to eat, however, the one place you must go for dessert is Vigo.
This ice cream parlour serves what we unanimously decided is some of the best handmade ice cream we’ve ever tasted in a range of flavours that included chocolate orange, coconut, and cheesecake.
We loved the ice cream so much that we even made a detour back into central Ljubljana on our way back to the airport at the end of our trip. The ice cream shop is a short walk from the central market.
Days 3 – 5: Lake Bohinj & Lake Bled
There are several ways to organise the next couple of days in Slovenia.
We had originally looked at staying in Lake Bled but could not find accommodation that looked nice and wasn’t wildly expensive so instead we decided to visit Slovenia’s most famous lake as a day trip.
Lake Bohinj
First, however, we visited Lake Bohinj. One of Slovenia’s lesser-known lakes, this is the biggest lake in the country and both wilder and and less touristy than its more famous neighbour. Just 27km separates the two lakes so you can technically visit both in a day. However, I would recommend splitting your time and spending at least one day in each.
We loved Lake Bohinj and spent a happy afternoon swimming in the clear waters, eating lunch at the excellent Restaurant Kramer on the lakeshore (great pizzas, burgers and pasta dishes available, cash only) and jumping off the jetty into the blue-green waters.
In hindsight, we all said that we should have stayed a couple of nights in Lake Bohinj although most accommodation is not on the lakeshore but in the nearby towns of Stara Fuzina, Ukanc and Ribcev Laz. Two hotels that come particularly recommended are Hotel Majerca and Butterfly Lodge.
If you have longer than an afternoon or day in Lake Bohinj then there are walking trails to enjoy, including the kid-friendly walk to slap Savica (Savica waterfall).
Lake Bled
It’s just 55km from Ljubljana to Lake Bled and you can be rowing across the fairytale lake in 45 minutes if traffic is on your side. If you don’t have a rental car then regular buses depart from the city centre to Lake Bled and take between 1hr – 1hr 20 minutes.
Set at the foot of the Julian Alps, the 2.1km-long lake is best known for its movie-poster scenery: a church, the Church of the Assumption, perched on a single island in the middle of the dazzling teal waters.
When Slovenia was still part of Yugoslavia, Lake Bled was a popular resort favoured by Austro-Hungarian aristocrats. Former President of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Josip Broz (more commonly known as Tito) was particularly fond of the storybook setting and had his own lakeshore villa.
Today the former president’s summer residence is a four-star hotel, Villa Bled, and is still denied out with fifties decor and period furniture.
You can even book Tito’s top floor, 100 square metre presidential suite. At the very least you can stop by and see the “partisan resistance” mural that remains on one of the hotel walls.
The highlight of Lake Bled is, obviously, the lake itself and there are various ways to enjoy the crystalline waters.
In addition to swimming and hiring stand up paddle boards, you can visit Bled Island by boat. The best way to do this is to hire a row boat and use paddle power to make the journey. Lots of places along the lakeshore offer boat hire: we got ours from Carman House and it cost 30 euros for the first hour and a further 15 euros for subsequent hours (one hour was enough).
If rowing yourself doesn’t appeal then you can hop on board a pletna (gondola), which will dock at the South Staircase (Južno Stopnišče), the dramatic set of stairs built in 1655 that lead to the island’s hilltop church.
You can visit the church and apparently it’s good luck to ring the church bell. We opted instead to visit the island cafe who specialises in potica, Slovenia’s national pastry typically served during festivals and family celebrations.
Other things to do around Lake Bled include taking a horse and cart ride (although I wouldn’t recommend this as the road winding its way around the lake is typically busy with traffic) and visiting Bled Castle that sits perched on top of a precipice overlooking the town and lake. You have to pay to enter the medieval castle but if you do then you will be rewarded with a blockbuster view.
One thing you must do when you are in Lake Bled is try the town’s famous kremna rezina. Lots of places sell this incredible cream cake, made using two types of cream and mille-feuille pastry, including The Park Hotel, which apparently once made the best in town. We opted instead for Slascicarna Zima and can happily report back that their version of the Bled Cream Cake was outstanding.
We visited Lake Bled as a day trip on our way to the Logar Valley but you may choose to overnight here (or in neighbouring Lake Bohinj). Some of the best places to stay include Villa Bled, Garden Village Bled and Pension Berc.
One place that we did not get to visit while at Lake Bled is Vintgar Gorge. Located just 4km from the lake, the 1,600m-long gorge sits on the eastern edge of the Triglav National Park and by all accounts is stunning. The best time to visit is early morning so one to add to your list if you are staying in the area.
Radovljica
A short drive from Lake Bled is the small town of Radovljica and is worth visiting if you have time; the small pedestrianised centre houses a number of shops (don’t miss the excellent Radolška čokolada chocolate shop) and the Museum of Pharmacy and Alchemy (sadly closed when we visited). We had dinner at Baffi House of Pizza and it was excellent.
Kamnik
The other town worth visiting is Kamnik. We stopped by this small town on our way to the Logar Valley but you can easily spend a day or an afternoon here (the book Slovenology has a chapter dedicated to the author’s hometown of Kamnik).
In spite of its compact size, Kamnik is home to three castles, an expansive botanical garden (including a hedgerow maze) and the remains of a medieval wall among other sights. We only had time for a brief stroll through the historic centre and dinner at Orient, that serves up huge portions of very tasty Ćevapčići.
Days 5-7: The Soča Valley or Logar Valley
Time head to the mountains.
The Soca Valley is one of the most popular corners of Slovenia, home to the cartoon blue Soca River. The valley runs from Bovec, in the northwest of Slovenia to Most na Soci in the southeast of Triglav National Park and is popular with hikers and thrill seekers who come here for canyoning and whitewater rafting adventures.
We, however, did not visit Soca Valley on this trip but decided to head instead to Logar Valley (Logarska dolina), located in the Solčava Region of northern Slovenia.
While the Logar Valley might not enjoy the same kind of adrenalin-fuelled adventures that the Soca Valley, it certainly competes when it comes to looks.
This glacial Alpine valley is regularly called one of the most beautiful in Europe, a 7km-long U-shaped valley blanketed in green meadows and bookended by magnificent jagged grey peaks.
You can happily spend 3-4 nights here: we spent 4 and enjoyed 3 full days exploring the valley, basing ourselves at the excellent family-run Lenar Farm. This charming B&B is one of three hotel options in this, the most scenic, part of the valley (the other two are Hiša Ojstrica and Hotel Plesnik).
Run by Urška and her parents Minka and Gustave, this is an absolutely delightful place to stay. The farm has been in the family since 1875 and consequently has plenty of stories to tell, including its role as a refuge for allied soldiers during the Second World War under the protection of Slovenian Partisans.
The home is decorated with dozens of family photographs including a wonderful black and white portrait in the dining room of Gustave’s father surrounded by his wife, children and Tito himself.
Stays at Lenar Farm include an excellent breakfast but you will have to look elsewhere for lunch and dinner. We spent every evening dining on the terrace at nearby Hiša Ojstrica enjoying their local specialities (dumplings, grilled trout, pasta dishes and a very good fruits of the forest strudel) and sampling local Slovenian wine.
One thing to be aware of, the Logar Valley is a protected nature park and between April and October, there’s an entrance fee to drive into the park although we did not have to pay it as we were staying in the valley.
Hikes in Logar Valley
The main activity in Logar Valley is hiking and there are a number of hiking trails and mountain trails to choose from. We did the following….
Hike to Koča Klemenča Jama. This was our favourite of all three hikes. It’s steep; nearly an hour walking uphill but the route zigzagging up through the forested mountain is beautiful. Plus when you get to the Koča Klemenča Jama mountain hut you can reward yourself with a delicious lunch. We shared a plate of Slovenian dumplings, a portion of Kranjska Klobasa (sausage) and the best apple strudel that we found in our 10 days in Slovenia.
A number of walks lead on from here but as we turned around and headed back down the mountain, taking a slightly different return route. Before descending we did go and see the nearby “thickest larch tree in Slovenia” but were slightly underwhelmed.
Hike to Partizanska Bolnica. On our second day we visited the neighbouring valley of Robanov Kot and started out on the path leading to the site where a Partizan hospital once stood.
Unfortunately it had rained overnight and the steep mountain trail was very slippery. Unlike the walking trails that are well used and well maintained, the “mountain trails” are far more adventurous and much scrambling is involved. If the weather is on your side when you visit the Logar Valley then I would highly recommend trying this route.
Hike to Slap Rinka (Rinka Waterfall). The Rinka Waterfall is the most famous attraction in the Logar Valley. From Lenar Farm, it’s roughly an hour’s walk through marked forested trails from Farm Lenar to the 90m-high falls that are the second highest in Slovenia.
They are beautiful and well worth visiting. You can reward yourself with a shot of homemade blueberry schnapps at the treehouse-like cabin Orlovo Gnezdo (cash only).
The alternative is to drive to the end of the Logar Valley road, park in the parking lot and walk 10 minutes to the waterfall. A marked mountain trail leads from the waterfall up into the mountains to the Frischaufov Dom Na Okreslju mountain hut, an hour-long walk that is supposed to be beautiful but was sadly closed when we visited.
Urška at Lenar Farm also recommended that we drove along the Solčava Panoramic Road but we ran out of time – all the more reason to return.
Days 7-10: Slovenia’s Adriatic Coast
It’s less than three hours to drive from the Logar Valley to Slovenia’s beautiful Adriatic Coast so you have time to see some of the country’s other highlights along the way if you want including some of Slovenia’s most famous caves.
Postojna Cave Park is Slovenia’s poster child for underworld adventures (you’ll spot an advert for it at Ljubljana Airport), home to the first underground cave railway and olms, a rare aquatic salamander believed for a long time to be baby dragons.
Nearby is Predjama Castle, a Renaissance castle built at the mouth of a cave.
We decided against Postojna and opted instead for Škocjan Caves, home to one of the world’s largest underground river canyons.
We loved Škocjan Caves that felt akin to hiking through the mines of Mora in Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Although less popular than Postojna, tours to visit the limestone cave system (you can only visit on a guided tour) sell out regularly during the summer months.
We had originally planned to visit on our way to the coastal town of Piran but arrived to find that all tours were fully booked. We ended up buying tickets then and visiting on our way to Ljubljana Airport at the end of our trip. Tours of the cave system typically take 1.5 – 2 hours.
Slovenia’s Coastal Towns
The three main coastal towns in Slovenia are Koper, Izola and Piran. We chose Piran as our base and absolutely fell in love with this seaside town with its Venetian-style streets tightly packed with narrow houses painted in sorbet colours.
Once-upon-a-time, Piran was controlled by the Doges of Venice and Italian influences remain in droves from the ornate baroque architecture (particularly around Tartini Square) to the many restaurants that serve freshly prepared pasta.
We spent three nights here and could have happily stretched to another two if we had known just how lovely Piran is.
One of the joys of this town is simply wandering the narrow winding streets and seeing what you find. Make sure to walk along Ulica IX. korpusa (the road leading up to the hilltop Roman Catholic St. George’s Parish Church) which is home to a handful of local artisans including Nika who produces small replica houses of Piran out of driftwood.
The hilltop also affords wonderful panoramic views over the terracotta tiled rooftops and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Visit at dusk and you will be rewarded with some of the most spellbinding sunsets in Europe.
It’s a tiny town and if, like us, you have a hire car then you will need to park this in the parking lot on the outskirts of town (driving and parking in the old town itself is reserved for residents only).
Beaches in Piran and around
There are no sandy beaches in and around Piran but there are still dozens of places to stop and swim.
In Piran itself, locals and visitors jump in the sea wherever possible, staking their spot on pebbles and small corners of concrete before going for a swim. Small jetties and ladders pepper the rocky shore but the best place to go in town is the area just behind the lighthouse.
We spent our first afternoon in Piran swimming in the sea around town but then ventured further afield on our second and third days.
Located in the Strunjan Nature Reserve, between Strunjan and Izola, Moon Bay (also known as the Bay of the Cross) is often called the “most beautiful beach in Slovenia”. Granted, the coastline is only 47km long but having visited Moon Bay ourselves, I can happily say that it is a truly wonderful pebble beach.
This natural lagoon is backed by an 80m-high cliff and can only be reached by foot down a fairly steep dirt and sand track. It’s worth the effort, however, as you are greeted with beautifully clear crystalline waters and natural shade from the cliffs. Be aware that there are no amenities here so bring what you need with you.
At the top of the path leading to Moon Bay is a lovely little restaurant that makes a daily special. Fantastic freshly steamed mussels with garlic were on the menu when we visited for a post-beach lunch.
On our third day we visited White Cliffs (also known as Strunjan Cliff), which sits just a little further along from Moon Bay. Like Moon Bay, this slim curve of pebbles bordered by towering cliffs on one side and the sparkling Adriatic Sea on the other, was a wonderful place to spend the day.
We hired a taxi to take us to both beaches which we decided was easier than navigating parking but you can also hire bikes (including e-bikes) for getting around.
Where to stay and eat in Piran
There are only two hotels within Piran itself. One option is the four-star waterfront Hotel Piran that has been welcoming guests for over 100 years. The other option is Art Hotel Tartini, which sits on the Tartini Square, named after the great Baroque violinist Giuseppe Tartini.
We stayed at the Art Hotel Tartini and it was a great option for us. The rooms are simple but spotless and overlook either the sea or the terracotta rooftops. Breakfast was included in our rates but apart from the first day we opted for breakfast at the nearby Restaurant Neptun instead.
All other accommodation is found in family-run guesthouses and B&Bs.
You are spoiled for choice when it comes to restaurants in Piran and we ate very well. I would highly recommend the pizza restaurant Pino at Art Hotel Tartini. We ate here on our first evening and the pizza was some of the best that I have ever had.
I’ve already mentioned Restaurant Neptun for breakfast but even if you don’t eat here then drop by for coffee. They make the best in town, guaranteed to satisfy even the most picky coffee fans.
We had an excellent dinner one night at Rostelin that serves fantastic homemade pasta, fresh seafood and excellent cheesecake for dessert. Alternatively, head to Mersii Gelato, which is best option for ice cream in Piran.
Day 10: Return to Ljubljana and home
It’s approximately 140km from Piran to Ljubljana Airport so depending on what time your flight is then you have a variety of options for how you spend your last day.
After a leisurely breakfast, we headed to Škocjan Caves and then towards Ljubljana. You may choose to visit Škocjan or possibly Postojna and nearby Predjama Castle or even enjoy one more swim before packing your bags for home.
I hope that you have found this itinerary useful; if you have any questions then please feel free to get in touch. What I will say as a final parting is that Slovenia really is a wonderful country and however you choose to organise your trip I am certain that you will have a great time. Enjoy!
