When I visited Nova Scotia for the second time, exploring the eastern shore on a road trip, I knew to expect beautiful scenery. What I hadn’t prepared myself for was the incredible accommodation available.
I arrived at Nalu Retreat and Nordic Spa late on a sunny afternoon in July. This was my first stop leaving Halifax and, after I exited the scenic Marine Drive and followed the gravel driveway to the retreat I was greeted by three oversized white geodomes sitting on raised wooden platforms.
Set amid 25 acres of woodland, overlooking the deep blue waters of Porter’s Lake, this is a beautiful adults-only retreat and a truly unique place to stay.
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Where is Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa?
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Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa overlooks Porter’s lake, one of the largest lakes in Nova Scotia at 19km long. The property feels wonderfully remote, surrounded entirely by woodland and with no development on the other side of the lake.
Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is just 30 minutes away and from the airport, you can be soaking in your outdoor hot tub in 45 minutes.
The location is ideal for a first stop on a longer road trip of the eastern shore Nova Scotia or as a weekend getaway from Halifax.
You will definitely need a car to get here (I hired a car at Halifax Stanfield International Airport) and you will received detailed instructions for finding the property once you have booked.
The good news is that Nalu Retreat is open year-round. I visited during the summer months and watching the sunlight dance across the lake waters was beautiful but I imagine it is equally stunning at any other time of year.
The Domes of Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa
Nalu Retreat is very much a glamping experience for those who want to connect with Mother Nature but do so in style.
Nalu is a Hawaiian word meaning to meditate, ponder and contemplate and the setting above Porter’s Lake allows guests to completely switch off and unwind.
The three four-season geodesic domes sit on raised wooden platforms and each offers a slightly different view and sensory experience.
Dome 1 has views of the lake and forest; Dome 2 has the best lake view over Porter’s Lake; and Dome 3 sits slightly further back with a forest view and with lake views in the distance. I stayed in Dome 2 and absolutely loved the lake views out of my panoramic window.
Apparently there are plans to build more domes in the future but selfishly, it was a wonderful escape having just the three domes.
Every dome comes with high ceilings, large private decks with outdoor private spa tubs, an outdoor shower, a fire pit, and an electric barbecue.
What really makes these domes so special are the large panoramic windows. I spent a large amount of my time at Nalu Retreat sitting on the comfortable three-seater sofa soaking up the view moving only occasionally to my own hot tub for a marginally different point of view.
Inside, the domes enjoy all the luxuries of a boutique hotel; a comfy queen size bed with luxury linens and a down comforter, a stylish modern bathroom with a rain shower, and a well equipped kitchen with almost everything you need to whip up an evening meal.
I say almost: the kitchens come with full-sized refrigerators, hot plates and a convection oven rather than a proper stove but there’s a bbq outside to use and, to be honest, who wants to be doing much cooking when you are on holiday anyway?
Each dome also enjoys its own stargazing loft. These are accessed by a (somewhat precarious) ladder but the space at the top of the dome is quite magical. Furnished with a beanbag big enough for two, on clear nights you can lie back and watch the night stars from the large skylight. It’s wonderfully romantic and a quick glance through the visitor’s book confirms that at least one proposal has taken place here.
Apparently there are plans to build a Nordic Day Spa at Nalu Retreat although an opening date has yet to be announced. For the time being, you can book a massage to take place in your dome.
Amenities at Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa
Nalu Retreat has been designed as a spa-like healing retreat for guests to connect with nature and there are some really lovely touches from the aromatherapy diffuser in the entrance hall and the meditation rounds in the stargazing loft to the adult colouring books and board games including Scrabble and Monopoly.
Every dome comes with yoga mats and blankets so you can cozy up outside when the temperature drops and a Dreamegg sound machine in case you find the silence too quiet (sounds include birdsong and white noise).
There is also complimentary wireless internet access (although I would argue that Nalu Retreat is exactly the kind of place where you want to lock away your phone!).
Other welcome treats include the custom Nalu chocolates on arrival and the packet of coffee by the Better Vibe Coffee Co.
Dining at Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa
I was not in the mood for cooking during my stay and fortunately Nalu Retreat caters to visitors like me, offering a range of meals that you can order to be delivered to your dome, everything from a generous charcuterie board to more substantial meals including vegetarian lasagna and seafood chowder.
These are curated by Chef Kim at Lupin Dining & Pantry, a small, local farm-to-table restaurant, and can be ordered when you make your reservation.
Things to do near Nalu Retreat
To be honest, it’s hard to tear yourself away from Nalu Retreat but if you do manage to peel yourself off the sofa then there are some fun activities to do nearby.
Almost next door to Nalu Retreat is the start of the Crowbar Lake Hiking Trails with four different trails to choose from. Time constraints and the hot, muggy weather meant I opted for the smallest loop, the 1.6km-long Porters Lake Loop. The most ambitious trail is the Salmon River Loop. Nalu Retreat has details on the trails and they are all well marked.
Nalu Retreat also offer surf and stay inclusive packages, which is what I signed up for, and enjoyed an afternoon learning to surf with Kannon Beach Surf School at Lawrencetown Beach.
I have tried surfing a handful of times but still find it incredibly difficult. Fortunately, I had an extremely patient and encouraging 21-year-old instructor, Lucas, who ensured that I just about managed to stand up once during the 1.5 hour lesson.
Less than 20 minutes away by car is the Acadian House Museum (L’Acadie de Chezzetcook). Open during the summer months only (July 1st – August 31st), this is a wonderful insight into Acadian culture in this corner of Nova Scotia.
I joined my guide, one of the local students who lead tours around the former Acadian home from the 1850s-70s, and listened as she shared some of the region’s history.
The home is packed full of household items including wash stands, the family’s best china (which would only come out when the priest came to visit) and the chaise lounge in the living room where the head of the household – the dad – would take a nap after returning from the field.
My favourite items were the old curling tongs and the sock-shaped metal hangers for drying wool socks. There’s a cafe on site too, La Cuisine de Brigitte, which is a good option for a tasty lunch.
Know before you go
Nalu Retreat is open year-round. Overall, I highly recommend this property and would love to plan a return trip soon. Enjoy!
