“Look at that view,” said our guide Alice as we reached the top of the Monthoisey in Monts Jura. Located at a height of 1,680m, this is one of the highest points in the Pays de Gex ski domains, just below the Crêt de la Neige, and offers the most beautiful panoramas over the surrounding area.
Not, as you might expect over the marshmallow peaks of the French Alps but over the sparkling blue waters of Lake Geneva. On a clear day, mighty Mont Blanc can be seen in the distance.
It was my first morning skiing in Lélex/Crozet, one of three alpine ski domains in the Monts Jura area.
Located in the Pays de Gex region, this petit ski domain sits tucked between Lake Geneva and the Jura Mountains and is home to three alpine ski areas: Lélex-Crozet, Mijoux-la Faucille, and Menthières. There is also the highly regarded Nordic ski area, La Vattay-Valserine.
None of the three ski resorts are linked and none of them are very large either which is probably why this ski area remains off the radar for most Brits. But the truth is that despite its small size (or perhaps because of it) this is a really lovely ski domain.
If you are looking to ski Monts Jura, then here’s all you need to know.
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Ski Monts Jura
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The resort of Monts Jura is very much a local one. There are no famous runs or super speedy cable cars among the three downhill skiing areas (the ‘bubble cars’ are charmingly ancient). Nevertheless, this is a delightful place to ski. It’s what ski resorts used to look and feel like before championship downhill runs were created alongside state-of-the-art gondolas.
This is where local go to ski; where families spend their winter weekends, where friends meet up to cruise blue and red runs together and where couples pause at the various mountain restaurants for glass of vin jaune (the local yellow wine is a speciality) and a bite to eat before heading out onto the slopes again.
It’s laidback and friendly and wonderful antidote to the busy-ness (and, let’s be honest, the flashy-ness) of some of the more popular, more well known and highest ski resorts.
It’s one of the best ski resort in France for families that are just learning to ski and don’t want to spend a fortune on a large resort. It’s also a great option if you simply want a weekend ski break; located just 20 minutes from Geneva, you can have breakfast in London and be on the slopes just after lunchtime.
Because the ski resorts are not connected – either by ski runs or by a public shuttle bus service – you really do need to choose one ski resort and stick there. We stayed at Lélex-Crozet and I would highly recommend this village for your ski holiday. Not only is it the biggest with the largest number of runs and ski lifts but it also has the most variety of runs.
Lélex-Crozet
Lélex – Crozet is the biggest of the three Monts Jura ski areas with 21km of ski slopes. It’s also the one located closest to Geneva Airport. It’s so close in fact, that if you exit the French side of the airport and hop in a car or a taxi, then you can be at the bottom of the Telecabine du Fierney in Crozet in 20 minutes and ready to head up to the top of the Monthoisey.
Lélex-Crozet has the longest and steepest slopes of the Massif du Jura range making it a good option for more advanced skiers. And that’s the thing about Monts Jura, even if you are a very good skier, you should not discount this resort. When I visited in January, there was good snow, uncrowded slopes and some really fun runs.
Oeillettes, for example, is a perfectly groomed red that runs from near the mountain restaurant, Le Yeti, down into the village of Lélex. Also running down into the village is Edgar, a black run named after local champion freestyler – and Olympian – Edgar Grospiron.
Really, however, this is a great place to begin your alpine skiing journey. There are enough runs to keep you interested and learning for a week and the ski schools on hand to help you along your journey.
Accessible, affordable and largely devoid of crowds, you get good bang for your Euro here.
In terms of ski hire, Looping Sports sits at the bottom of the Telecabine du Fierney in Crozet. If you are visiting on a busy weekend then it’s worth calling in advance to reserve your ski kit. You can also arrange ski school with the ESF in Crozet.
Mijoux-la Faucille
For beginners, the slopes of Mijoux-La Facile are a great option. This ski area offers 15km of snowy slopes and 12 trails. Of these there are two green runs, six blue runs, three red runs and one black run.
The villages of Mijoux is also the starting point for access to the mountain toboggan and zipline (see below).
Menthières
The smallest of the three ski domains, Menthières has three runs: two green runs and one red.
La Vattay-Valserine
If Nordic skiing is your thing then the Pays de Gex is the perfect place because Monts Jura is home to a huge area dedicated entirely to cross-country skiing. La Vattay, as its more commonly called, has a global reputation among cross-country skiers for its groomed double tracks ranging from green to black.
If you fancy giving it a go – whether classic or skating – there are shops in town where you can hire equipment. We rented equipment from La Vattay Sports, a 10 minute walk way from the trails (they are also a good option for alpine ski hire rental).
Ski Passes for Monts Jura
Here’s where the Monts Jura ski resort really makes sense: A day pass for Adult / Teen / Child during high season (weekends and French school holidays) is €31.50/ €28 / €25. During low season it’s €24.50 / €21.70 / €19.60
Various deals are offered as well; for example if you buy 5 days then you get the 6th day free. Similarly, if you are buying for a family then a 5% discount is added to purchases over 4 ski passes. This offer is only available online.
Sure, you might not have the same number of runs available as you do in, for example, the Portes du Soleil but then again lift pass prices there start at €64 / €58 / €48 for the day.
Where to stay in Monts Jura
I highly recommend staying in the 3-star Bois Joly Hotel, which is located a short walk from the Crozet main chairlift and ticket office, and within half-an-hour of Geneva airport.
The hotel offers a variety of rooms, some with terraces and views towards Lake Geneva. There’s a good restaurant and the option to choose half-board, which comes with a tasty continental breakfast and dinner.
Prices for a seven-night stay start at as little as £278/318 per person, based on two sharing.
For more information and best prices see here.
Another option is the Jiva Hill Resort, a luxury resort with a heated indoor swimming pool. They offer a range of accommodation including family suites.
For more information and the best prices see here.
Other activities to do in Monts Jura
Despite its small size, Monts Jura is multi-activity resort and the area is packed with fun things to do from snowshoe treks and toboggan rides to ziplines that are fun for the whole family. Here are some of the best things to do in Monts Jura.
The Monts Jura Zipline
This thrilling zipline connects the summit of the Col de la Faucille to the village of Mijoux and is the steepest in France. Unlike some other mountain ziplines, such as the one in Les Arcs, where you leave your ski equipment behind, here you zip through the air carrying your skis and poles. Fortunately, however, they are safely strapped into a harness on your back!
This does mean that the zipline can be a little faffy; you must get weighed and have the harness attached before trading your ski helmet for a safety one. Then, after walking along the landing-strip long metal footbridge, a member of staff makes sure that you are properly strapped in.
Once you are all set (be prepared to dangle around in mid-air for a little while!) you are unclipped and sent soaring down towards Mijoux – some passengers even reach speeds of up to 90km / hour.
There are two lines so you can zip down at the same time as a friend or family member.
It’s great fun and well worth doing. Just remember to wear your ski goggles!
Cost: Adult / child under 15 €34/29
Accessible to children from 30kg and 125cm.
The Monts Jura Toboggan
If the zipline is the steepest in Europe then the local luge is one of the longest at just over 1km. The Monts Jura toboggan on rails is a twisting, turning, laugh-out-loud descent through the snow. Just how fast you go depends largely on your nerve as you have control over the brakes. Toboggans fit two people is a great family activity.
This rail toboggan is located in the Mijoux-La Faucille area, very close to the zipline.
It’s easily accessible on skis but can also be accessed via the Val Mijoux chairlift.
The toboggan is also open during the summer season.
Cost: From €9 / sledge
Minimum age: 5 years
Château de Voltaire
Not far from the ski domain of Monts Jura lies the small town of Ferney-Voltaire and Voltaire’s Chateau.
The French Enlightenment writer philosopher, historian and satirist spent twenty years of his life here in a beautiful rose pink chateau. It was built using stone – and the know-how of the local stonemasons – from the town of Samoens.
The chateau and gardens are today open to the public; the downstairs has been decorated in the style of the time and the upper floor is typically dedicated to art exhibitions.
A nighttime snowshoe hike with fondue
One evening we met our local guide – and member of the Brotherhood of the Bleu de Gex – for an evening snowshoe hike. Nicolas Guitton leads all manner of activities including a guided nighttime walk by torchlight.
This is a beautiful way to experience the countryside after-hours when the landscape is quiet and still. It’s a fairly demanding hike – especially at the pace that Nicolas initially set off at – but it is extremely rewarding, especially when you reach your destination.
Nicolas owns a barn on the mountainside that he uses for his Trait Comtois horses and where he brings guests on his nighttime snowshoe adventures. There, in a makeshift mezzanine, he prepares fondue on a small gas stove while pouring generous glasses of local white and red wine.
Dinner over and there’s the option to hike back down the mountain or sit down and slide your way down the snowy slopes.
Try Bleu de Gex
You can’t leave the Pays de Gex without trying its famous blue cheese. Known as the Bleu de Gex, this creamy blue-veined cheese is made in the Haut-Jura plateau using milk from the local Montbéliard cows. These are these are cows used to make Comte.
The locals are understandably proud of this cheese; they’ve been making it since the 13th century and it has been a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) since 1996. There is even a Brotherhood of Bleu de Gex.
Bleu de Gex is used in all manner of dishes including raclette and fondue or you can sample it raw.
How to get to Monts Jura
There are regular direct flights between London and Geneva. From Geneva it’s a 20 minute drive to Crozet and the chairlift.
